It was originally the central mountain retreat of Chiang Kai Shek that was built in 1901. Remodelled, what remains undeniably the same is the Zen-like view down into the lake and the mountains. The interiors have been styled more modern-Japanese cool than Chinese. Spare lines in pebble colours empty the mind for clutter-free gazing. The spa suites with open-air views out onto the lake from daybeds and double-sized bathtubs don't hurt either. There are 98 rooms including suites and villas, many of them similarly taking your eye out to where the water meets the mountain meets the sky. Book into a Lakeview Suite with views from all rooms, and in particular a long daybed lounge that hugs a panoramic window. Several dining areas offer more perspectives but for the quietest of contemplations sip on tea and snack on dim sum in The Tea House where the terrace deck melds into a lily padded water feature above the lake.